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BLT Soup? Foie Gras Cotton Candy? Inside Dishes in Disguise

4 September 2010 No Comment

Bouley

It’s a croquette…

Bouley

…and now it’s a soup! Photos: Chris Templin

Like superheros of the culinary world, these four dishes offer more than meets the eye, each masking its secret identity as something else entirely. Got a favorite dish in disguise? Let us know in the comments.

When is a soup not a soup? When it’s a basil kromeski.

At 231 Ellsworth in San Mateo, CA, restaurant executive chef Isaac Miller serves a croquette that spills out its secret identity when you crack it open: it’s filled with hot, creamy basil soup. “We first did a foie gras and chestnut version when I was working for David Kinch at Manresa,” the chef says. ”When I brought it to 231 Ellsworth, it was summer and I had a garden on the Russian River that produced a bunch of varieties of basil. So I made a very simple basil soup – just basil, cream and salt – and then I decided to set it with gelatin, bread it and fry it up, like a classic Russian kromeski.” The dish has since become a signature amuse at the restaurant. “There’s one family of regulars that requests an entire bowlful every time they come in” (650-347-7231; reserve online.)

When is a sandwich not a sandwich? When it’s BLT soup.

Brasserie Joel

Commerce’s BLT Soup
Photo: Hernan F. Rodriguez

Chef-owner Harold Moore’s chilled soup at Commerce in NYC cleverly combines all of the flavors of the simple sandwich for a refreshing summertime favorite at the restaurant. “I like lettuce soup, which is very French,” Moore explains, “but you can’t sell that in New York.” But he didn’t shelve the idea entirely. While pondering what to cook at a pork dinner, Moore was munching on a BLT, and that’s when it hit him. “I was thinking about the synergy of the smoky bacon with the cool mayo and tomato.” The $14 chilled lettuce soup is poured over chopped heirloom tomatoes, homemade bacon bits and fried brioche croutons; the flavor layers of the sandwich melt together in one liquefied taste (212-524-2301; reserve online).

When are petit fours not for dessert? When they are a savory amuse.

carrot marshmallow

Eleven Madison Park’s sweetbread cornet
Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Executive chef Daniel Humm welcomes guests at NYC’s Eleven Madison Park with an amuse of five savory petit fours. “There definitely has been some application from the pastry side,” Humm says about the idea. “But for me the real inspiration came from childhood, when my family would travel to Italy. In the beginning of the meal, they would send out little snacks. Even if you just had a glass of wine, they would sent out these little bites. That always left such an impression on me because it was so hospitable. I thought, there must be a way to bring that into a four-star restaurant.” Humm’s take on the bites change frequently, but diners can expect nibbles like a galette of big eye tuna and bonito mousse; black-pepper sable with foie gras and strawberry; zucchini tartlettes; a crispy sweetbread cornet; and a carrot marshmallow (212-889-0905; reserve online).

When is a candy not all sweet? When it’s foie gras cotton candy.

Foie gras cotton candy

The Bazaar’s foie gras cotton candy
Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

At first glance, diners might think they are presented with a row of oversized Q-tips at José Andrés’ LA hot spot The Bazaar. But one bite reveals that they are actually cotton-candy lollipops with a cube of foie gras hidden inside. The fanciful bite was inspired by a toy cotton-candy machine Andres bought for his daughters. “When we plugged it in and it began melting the sugar…wow!” says Andrés. “The aromas, the beautiful strands of sugar were so light, so thin, they were almost translucent. And when you put the cotton candy in your mouth, there was this crispiness of texture that rapidly dissolved. I realized this was an amazing form of caramelization, and I began to think about how to use this. Like any good Catalan, I like the play of salty and sweet. I also like to juxtapose high-end and low-end, so I thought about adding foie gras to cotton candy… circus food. The result not only plays with savory and sweet, but the idea of what is elegant and what is humble” (310-247-0400).

– Kathleen Squires

Source: Zagat.com – Go to Source



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